Chilly nights beg for oyster stew, served with buttered toast points or oyster crackers, and perhaps a green salad. I like the added crunch and flavor of the shallot and celery, and the boost the reduced chicken stock gives. There are many ways to enhance it, which are listed as variations below.

Ingredients (4 servings)2 tablespoons butter1 shallot or small onion, very finely chopped1/3 cup celery or fennel bulb, finely chopped1/2 cup chicken stock or broth, fresh or canned2 cups heavy cream1 quart oysters and their strained liquidSaltFreshly ground black pepper2 teaspoons chopped parsley or fennel frondOyster crackers or toast points Directions

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. Add the shallot or onion and celery or fennel and cook 3 to 4 minutes to remove the raw taste. Add the stock, bring to a boil and boil rapidly until the liquid is reduced to 1/3 cup. Add the cream and bring to a boiling point. Remove from the heat and add the oysters and their liquid. Return to the stove and heat through about 2 minutes, until the oysters are warmed throughout and their edges begin to curl, without boiling. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour into soup bowls. Garnish with parsley or fennel and serve with the crackers.

Variations

Add 1 teaspoon bourbon or anise liquor to the heated cream.

Top with a little shredded country ham, bacon and/or 3 cooked and quartered new potatoes.

Add curry powder or a little hot pepper to the pan with the shallot and fennel.

Add 1/2 to 1 cup baby spinach, turnip greens or collards, or slivered larger leaves. Cooked English peas are a nice addition, as well.

Add chopped or sliced Jerusalem artichoke (Sunchokes) to the pan with the onion and celery or fennel.