What dermatologists actually think about face serums for men

Remember the good old days when we relied on a skincare regimen of soap and water? Maybe not, depending on how many candles were on your last birthday cake, but skincare was once as straightforward as that, especially for men. However, modern advances like gentle cleansers and moisturizers allowed deeper cleans and softer, smoother, and well-hydrated skin. Specific ingredients in these products also helped target or reduce the risk for common skin concerns, including acne and sun protection, while delaying signs of aging. These days, skincare has expanded, sometimes to luxurious-looking but rather complicated 12-step routines. Face serums often make these regimens and even more scaled-back ones.

What are serums, and do they belong in your routine?

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TL;DR: "Serums are topicals that tend to contain more active ingredients than moisturizers and are intended to target specific skin conditions," said Dr. Amy Huang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with Medical Offices of Manhattan and contributor to labfinder.com.

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Do you need one? Dermatologists shared more on face serums for men, including what they do, how they might help, ingredients to look out for, and drawbacks.

What are face serums, and what do they do for men?

Serums are a specialized type of skincare product. "Serums are a type of skincare product that typically have a liquid consistency and are usually applied underneath moisturizer," said Dr. Viktoryia Kazlouskaya, MD. Ph.D., a dermatologist and the CEO of Dermatology Circle PLLC in New York. "You can think of serums as treatments. The primary goal of a serum is to deliver concentrated active ingredients based on your desired effect."

You might think, "face serums for men?" You're not alone. Serums -- and skincare, more generally -- are often marketed toward women. However, concerns like wrinkes, dryness, and skin tone aren't limited to a specific sex.

"While often marketed toward women, she says active ingredients assist with some of her male client's pain points, active ingredients directly into the skin, targeting specific concerns like hydration, aging, or uneven skin tone," said Dr. Hannah Kopelman, MD, a dermatologist at Kopelman Hair Restoration.

Dr. Kazlouskaya concurs.

"For example, if you want additional hydration, you might opt for a hyaluronic serum," Dr. Kazlouskaya said. "Consider vitamin C or acids like tranexamic acid and kojic acid for pigmentation concerns. For anti-aging, retinol and peptides are popular choices."

While you might be concerned about using another product, especially in the hot summer months, Dr. Geeta Yadav, MD, said face serums are lightweight and fast-absorbing.

Serum vs. moisturizer: What's the difference?

Serums and moisturizers can get confused. Part of the confusion is that face serums can be moisturizing. However, the products have critical distinctions.

"Serums absorb faster and more deeply than moisturizers, with the goal of providing targeted benefits," Dr. Yadav said. "Moisturizers' primary goal is always to moisturize, nourish, and condition the skin, though they may also offer additional benefits."

Dr. Kopelman says there's another critical distinction.

"Unlike moisturizers, which create a protective barrier, serums penetrate deeper into the skin to address underlying issues," Dr. Kopelman says.

Dr. Kazlouskaya said the targeted approach means specific serums provide the most benefits for people with particular skincare pain points and are not very useful for others. For instance, retinol can help with anti-aging and acne, but the ingredient may worsen already dry skin.

Do you need a serum?

Face serums for men: Are they necessary? Good question. Common question. The answer depends on who you ask.

"Serums are not necessary for a skin routine but can help target specific skin concerns [like fine lines, skin irritation, dark spots, and dryness]," Dr. Huang said.

However, Dr. Yadav is a proponent of face serums for men (and women, for that matter).

"I always recommend that people use a serum -- these concentrated treatments are easy to integrate into one's skincare routine and can significantly benefit the skin," Dr. Yadav said.

Dr. Kopelman also feels that face serums have their place in skincare routines, but they aren't for every person in every season.

"There are times when you might want to skip your serum, like if your skin is reacting to it or if you're already using multiple products with similar active ingredients," Dr. Kopelman said. "Overloading your skin can lead to irritation, so striking a balance is important. I always recommend starting slowly, especially if you're new to using serums."

Tips for choosing a face serum for men and adding one to your skincare routine

While most dermatologists agree that serums aren't a must-have, they are a nice-to-have, especially if you have concerns about aging, tone, or hydration. Since serums are skin-specific, the choice is not one-size-fits-all. Understanding how to choose a face serum, how to add it to your routine, and when to stop using one can help you get the most out of the product and create a regimen that benefits you. Dermatologists shared their top tips for choosing, using, and ditching serums, from ingredients to signs of irritation.

Consult a board-certified dermatologist

TikTok influencers with affiliate links and labels full of marketing jargon make tall promises. However, you'll want to look at them with a discerning eye. This task can also be challenging for people unfamiliar with skincare products, especially if you're new to face serums. A board-certified dermatologist can be your ally and help you cut through the noise.

"Since serums are among the most potent skincare types, investing in a high-quality ingredient serum tailored to your concerns is essential," Dr. Kazlouskaya said. "While many reputable brands exist, not all are supported by clinical research."

Look for ingredients that benefit you

Remember, serums are targeted skincare products that treat specific conditions or concerns. While face serums are trendy, you should know why you're using one before selecting one.

"We all have skincare goals," Dr. Yadav said. "Select a serum with ingredients to help get you closer to achieving those goals."

For instance, Dr. Yadav suggests humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin for hydration and niacinamide to soothe skin. Dr. Kopelman also loves niacinamide for oily skin.

"If you're not sure where to start, an antioxidant serum with vitamin C is always a safe bet," Dr. Yadav said.

Understand best practices

Serums with certain ingredients may require specific application and storage.

"If you use a hyaluronic acid serum, apply it to damp skin or with damp fingertips," Dr. Yadav said. "Hyaluronic acid works like a magnet for moisture, attracting water to pull it into your skin. Applying it with damp skin or fingertips will give the hyaluronic acid some water to grab onto, kickstarting hydration."

Dr. Yadav also shared a few pointers before selecting a vitamin C serum (and what to do once you've purchased it).

"If you select a vitamin C serum, make sure the packaging is very dark or opaque and that you store it in a cool, dark place," Dr. Yadav said. "Vitamin C is notoriously unstable and can break down easily when exposed to light, air, and temperature fluctuations. Keeping it in a cool, dark place will preserve the integrity and efficacy of the ingredient so you get maximum benefits from your serum."

Start small

Dr. Kazlouskaya suggests buying a smaller bottle of face serum or asking for a sample.

"Good serums can be more expensive than other skincare products, so trying a smaller size or sample first is a wise approach to see if it's suitable for your skin," she said.

Additionally, Dr. Huang suggests patch-testing a small area of skin before applying it more broadly. You may want to use another product if you notice redness or irritation.

Avoid switching products too quickly

Rome wasn't built in a day, and acne and dryness won't clear up within an hour of using a face serum for men.

"A good skincare routine takes time to show results, typically around six months," Dr. Kazlouskaya said. "Give your skin time to adjust and respond to the serum."

Know when to apply a face serum

There's an optimal order to a skincare routine that includes a face serum.

"Serums should be applied to clean skin or after a toner if you use one," Dr. Kazlouskaya said.

Dr. Yadav said a sample morning skincare routine looks like this:

Cleanser Toner Serum Moisturizer SPF

At night, Dr. Yadav suggested:

Cleanser Toner Serum Moisturizer Know when to stop using a serum

You want your serum to enhance and treat your skin so you look like your best self, not the opposite.

"There are several signs that a serum may not be working for you: burning sensations upon application, increased inflammation, redness, or breakouts," Dr. Kazlouskaya said. "Additionally, pay attention to the expiration date -- do not use it if expired -- and check for any changes in color or texture of the formulation."

Summary

Serums are a skincare product containing ingredients designed to target skincare concerns like wrinkles, dryness, uneven tone, and acne. Face serums are lightweight, absorb quickly, and act faster than moisturizers. Look for a face serum with ingredients that help you meet your goals, such as hyaluronic acid for added hydration. Serums are best applied after toner (if applicable) and before moisturizer. When using a face serum, monitor for signs of irritation, like redness, and stop using a product if your condition worsens. A dermatologist can help you find a good serum for your skin. While face serums for men can provide benefits, they aren't necessary. "Skincare is a personal choice, and it's up to you to decide if you want to incorporate one into your routine," Dr. Kazlouskaya said.

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