My father, who became a butcher after returning from Vietnam, held steak in the highest regard. It was the hallmark of celebration, a symbol of something special. That reverential treatment of a great steak has stayed with me, shaping my own appreciation for a perfectly cooked rib eye or filet.
From the now-departed rib eye at St. Roch to the flame-grilled rib eye and salad bar at the Peddler and the near-perfect combination of a martini and steak at Nana's, my pursuit of great steak in the Triangle has been an ongoing journey. So when Scott Crawford announced his own steakhouse, Crawford Brothers Steakhouse, my expectations were sky-high.
I've now visited Crawford Brothers four times since it opened in late December. Crawford Brothers not only met my expectations but, in many ways, exceeded them, offering a dining experience that is both a tribute to classic steakhouses and a testament to a more modern, almost whimsical approach to what you might expect when you hear the word "steakhouse."
Small details set the experience apart: When you arrive and step through the door, a host greets you with a warm hello, offering to take your coat as they check on your table. Located off Fenton Gateway Drive, the space combines a classic steakhouse's rich colors and dim lighting with the sleek lines and modernity that define a Crawford Hospitality space.
This was intentional, Crawford says: "Our vision summed up: to truly find the balance between a traditional steakhouse and a modern steakhouse."
"The vision started out as our interpretation and take on a contemporary American steakhouse," he continues. "My initial vision was for a modern steakhouse with a modern take, but as I traveled I dined at a wide array of steakhouses. I began to fall back in love with steakhouses as they were."
The kitchen is designed as an open-air space, serving as a focal point of the restaurant. The layout is divided into thirds, including a convertible private dining room with clear views of the kitchen and floor-to-ceiling windows. The front half of the main space features a striking circular bar, while the back half offers cozy booths and intimate tables near the open kitchen.
Menu highlights include a mix of classics and inventive dishes, such as dry-aged burgers, crab cakes with minimal filler, and playful presentations like tuna tartare nestled atop a bed of ice.
The opening dishes have been consistently delicious, including both the steak and tuna tartare. The steak tartare features a balanced mix of mustard, capers, parsley, and shallots, served alongside grilled sourdough; the mustard and capers provide the perfect accents to enhance the tartare, although some might think the mustard is a bit too front and center.
The tuna tartare shines with a subtle combination of lemon and tamari, allowing the quality of the tuna to take center stage. Another standout: the duck meatballs. The smoky richness of tomato, the sweetness of caramelized onions, and the slightly sharp bite of pecorino perfectly complement the flavor of the duck, making this dish a must-order.
I've tried several cuts of steak, including the coulotte and the filet. All of the meat is presented simply on a plate -- standing on its own. You can order large cuts designed for groups (or those with big appetites) or more individual portions. The steakhouse also offers special dry-aged cuts each night priced by the ounce.
Crawford tells me that he also hopes the menu has items that appeal to diners who want a more casual meal: "We hope people will find something on the menu for everyone -- ranging from our dry-aged burger with aged cheddar and bacon jam and tallow fries on the side to our Amish roast chicken to halibut."
Beef is the centerpiece of the menu in many respects, but you will also find robust seafood offerings. On my first visit, the seared halibut was the most surprising dish. Beurre blanc and fennel combined with the halibut for a buttery, rich experience that had the entire party asking for another bite.
Sides and sauces are designed to be accompaniments, ordered separately and shared. My one disappointment during my early visits was the limited serving size of the various sauces, given their price point ($10-$20).
A variety of vegetable options are offered as side dishes, including a twice-baked potato and creamed spinach. If you have been a fan of Crawford's restaurants for a while now, your eyes may well drift to the mushroom bread pudding that has made its way from the Crawford and Son menu to Crawford Brothers. The steakhouse rolls transported me back to the steakhouses of my youth, where yeast rolls with butter were often the highlight of the meal for my then-limited palate. They also reminded me of the early days of Crawford and Son, where yeast rolls were a must-order.
This brings us to the end of the menu -- don't skip dessert. My group loved the simple soft-serve dish, which includes a delicious swirl of Videri chocolate. For those looking for a final experience, the Baked Alaska looks like a standout dish.
The drink menu includes an array of martini options, several whiskey-based cocktails including a signature old-fashioned with Buffalo Trace, and excellent wine. The thread of whimsy extends to the drink menu with an appletini -- a drink you might associate with the 1990s, but on the Crawford Brothers menu, it is a delightful drink with the essence of cinnamon on top.
Crawford Brothers delivered a memorable experience on every visit. On three occasions, my party and I embraced it as a special event, indulging in steaks, seafood, and small plates. On the fourth visit, we opted for the burger. Though the bill was lighter, the experience was just as exceptional. It's clear that Scott Crawford's vision for the restaurant has quickly and successfully come to life.
The journey to opening Crawford Brothers wasn't always easy, though.
"We signed this deal a long time ago and we were gearing up to move into design and menu development when COVID-19 hit," Crawford says. "The world is upended in 2020 and 2021. The Fenton development also underwent changes as the world changed. We went back to the table to see if we wanted to change the location or the size of the space. We looked at every option -- and eventually we reached a consensus with the developer and then we geared up again."
Even after the ups and downs, Crawford's original vision is largely intact.
The restaurant's opening was the culmination of a busy year for Crawford Hospitality, which included the opening of Brodeto in May and Crawford Genuine at Raleigh-Durham International Airport this spring, both of which build on the long-running success of Crawford and Son and Jolie in downtown Raleigh.
When I ask Crawford what's next for the company, he laughs before saying he hopes 2025 will bring a little rest and a lot of travel.
"For us, this year is our year of being operators," he continues. "We are good operators and we pride ourselves on operating restaurants. We want to get to know these restaurants and to better understand how our guests are using these restaurants now that they are a few months in -- or several years in, depending on the concept."
He also shares that the company has hired its first director of culture, a role tasked with strengthening the company's approach internally and externally.
This year, Crawford Hospitality aims to build on the strong foundations of each of its concepts. For Crawford Brothers, this means the menu and approach will continue to evolve as the team finds its rhythm in the weeks ahead. Crawford promises more tableside preparations, dishes with exciting touches and whimsical flair, and even cocktails crafted tableside, reminiscent of the experience at Dukes in London.
Reflecting on my visit to Crawford Brothers, I was reminded of my father's words whenever friends joined us for dinner: "Order whatever you want, even the rib eye." To him, steak represented both a great meal and the essence of hospitality. I look forward to bringing him to Crawford Brothers someday and saying the same. This restaurant feels like a fitting new chapter for steakhouses in the Triangle -- honoring tradition while looking toward the future. It's well worth a visit.