Cauliflower can be bland and boring if not treated correctly, but browning the vegetable in the oven coaxes out deep, almost meaty flavors that transform it into a satisfying vegetarian main.

In this recipe from " Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year," we cut thick cauliflower steaks from the center section of the whole head, then brush them with olive oil on both sides and season with salt and pepper before cooking them in a scorching hot oven.

The steaks are roasted until tender throughout and browned on the bottom, anchoring the dish with a crispy edge and deep umami. A cheesy, mildly spicy topping of Parmesan, briny capers and pickled peppers is spooned on top before a final stint in the oven, building layers of salty, piquant flavor that highlight the nutty sweetness of the vegetable.

This dish is delicious with any sweet pickled pepper, but use South African Juanita peppers, sometimes referred to as Peppadew peppers, if you can find them. Be sure to blot the peppers and capers with paper towels before mixing the topping to minimize the moisture released and encourage browning.